Benoît Daridan of Cour Cheverny

Only a few grapes are left hanging on the vines at Domaine de la Marigonnerie, where winemaker Benoît Daridan is busy completing the fall harvest.  This family owned domaine is truly in the heart of the Loire Valley, in Cour Cheverny, where serene forests, picturesque lakes, and magnificent castles surround it. The vineyard is tucked away between the Chateau of Chambord, where Leonardo De Vinci designed the famous spiral staircase, and the Chateau of Cheverny that inspired the residence of Tintin.  What makes this region so special, however, is the Romorantin grape variety that was first brought here from Burgundy by François I (1494-1547).  It is a little known grape that cannot be found anywhere else in France, or in the world, and produces a delightful white wine.

When I first arrived at the vineyard, the strong smell of must was in the air.  The must or moût, as the French call it, is the grape juice that has not yet completed fermentation.  Some of the grapes were in the middle of being pressed, leaving a big pile of grape skins and stems on the flour that will later be used to fertilize the soil.  Most of the grapes have already been harvested and the fermentation process is well underway; however, the remaining grapes will produce a late-harvest dessert wine or vin moelleux.

The wines

The tasting began with the 2008 Cour Cheverny “Old Vines” (100 percent Romorantin), which is an aromatic and dry white wine.  It is delicate and crisp with citrus notes and a touch of honey.  As a comparison, I tasted the 2007 vintage, which had stronger honey aromas, was slightly buttery, and fuller in the mouth.  It was truly a delight.  Benoît expained that the 2008 is still young, but within a few years it will taste more like the 2007.  Traditionally the wine pairs wonderfully with the fish and goat cheeses of the Loire Valley, however, it would also be great with spicy exotic dishes.

The vineyard also produces a late-harvest wine that is made from the Romorantin grape.  The Cour Cheverny – Cuvée Tardive is velvety and soft with nice balance.  It would be a great compliment for foie gras, blue cheese, and, of course, dessert.

Benoît Daridan also produces some nice red wines; although I was much more keen on the whites, with one exception.  He gave me a taste of one of his experimental wines, a 100 percent Cabernet Sauvignon.  Unfortunately, he cannot sell this wine under the Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée regulations that requires the addition of Gamay.  His Cabernet was full-bodied, very aromatic, with prune, raspberry, and blackberry flavors.  It was well structured with nice tannins and almost reminded me of a California Cabernet.  It was truly a great surprise.

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