Sunday, February 21, 2010

The magic shrooms of St. Gilles

The regularly changing niche menu at Café des Spores may be a little pricey, but mushroom-lovers should gladly foot the bill once in a while.  We tasted Belgian shitake mushrooms stuffed with beef and lined with wispy flakes of a dried fish (~14 euros), which for me was easily the best dish of the night.  I adore these rich types of black mushrooms, and all the salty and dark flavors here combined so well.

Then there was the semi-melted Saint-Marcellin cheese with morels and a crusty potato underside (~13 euros).  This tasted good, too, but the cheese and sauce pretty much killed any taste of the mushrooms, so I was disappointed.

Lastly we tried a gnocchi, made with blended fish — la bottarga — and mixed with arugula/roquette, and forest mushrooms (~15 euros).  This one had a very gentle flavor, so we should have eaten this first.  Unfortunately it got kind of drowned out by all the cheese, butter, and soy sauce of the earlier dishes.

At least the wine collection can easily accommodate the shifting menu.

Portions are small, like the building, so don’t be surprised.

Café des Spores

Chaussée d’Alsemberg 103, St. Gilles

Food: B+

Price: C

Atmosphere: A

Languages: French, English

[Via http://bitemebrussels.wordpress.com]

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