Monday, September 28, 2009

Au Coup de Grâce

“Le coup de grâce” is a French medieval expression that means the final knockout or the kiss of death, but figuratively it can also refer to a final victory gained after many failed attempts.  I prefer the second definition, especially since a nice glass of wine is always in order after one finally succeeds in a difficult endeavor.  Inspired by this victorious expression, Au Coup de Grâce is one of the newest wine bars in Paris that opened its doors for the first time two weeks ago.  The owners are two young wine connoisseurs who are passionate about the grape, the wine, and, of course, the final victorious sip.

Located in the 5th arrondissement, Au Coup de Grâce is one of the newest editions to the long list of Parisian wine bars, but this one is different than most.  The interior is very simple with just a few tables and chairs, and the only decorations are the wine bottles displayed on the walls.  It is still very new (even the paint looks fresh), but I appreciate the simplicity.  The atmosphere is relaxing and the no-frills style confirms your reason to be there – to drink good wine.

There is a nice array of wines, mostly French, that can be as inexpensive as 5 euros a bottle, or, if you’re looking for a truly victorious drink, they have a nice selection of red Burgundies – both new and old.  They will open any of their bottles for a small corking fee, but of course you can also opt for one of their wines by the glass (4 euros).  And you can’t forget about the cheese and charcuterie.

The Wine

The bottle we chose was a Bourgogne 1999 Volnay Santenots du milieu (premier cru controlée) by François Mikulski.  It is from Meursault, which is located in the Côte d’Or.  According to Theo, one of the owners, it is a difficult year to find, and I can certainly see (or taste) why.  The bottle was everything you would want in a good Burgundy.  Although, when first opened, the wine was a little serré or closed.  The owner decanted the bottle for us, which opened up the great bouquet and brought out the complexity of the wine.  The body was fuller than I expected with bright acidity, earthy characteristics, and layers of cinnamon, smoke, tart raspberry, and casis.

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